Description

The signature of the Zenith El Primero movement is the date window at 4:30; yet here is an El Primero with the date window at the unusual 12:00 position, and it’s NOT a Zenith – what’s going on?
In the early 1970s both Movado & Zenith were under the same ownership, but they had a problem; their signature watch and their technical triumph – the El Primero couldn’t be sold in the US, the world’s biggest watch market at the time, as the Zenith TV corporation claimed exclusive rights to the name Zenith.

So, they sold the watches in the US as Movado Datrons – the one here dates from this period and bears the longest name I have ever seen on a watch; it’s a Movado Datron Sub Sea HS 360. Interestingly, this particular watch wasn’t sold in the US; the Zenith El Primeros have 31 jewels, whilst the Datrons shipped to the US have only 17, a hack designed to allow them to evade the high US import duties on watches with over 17 jewels. Many brands, including Rolex & Omega, also produced movements specifically constructed to evade these duties and allow affordable versions to be sold in the US. But, the Movado signed movement in this watch is a 31 jewel version – why, I have no idea!

Even more unusual is that the extremely rare Gay Freres ‘Ladder’ bracelet is signed ‘Zenith’ and not Movado.

The dial has oversized applied baton indices with tritium inserts, large silver registers (which unlike the Zenith ones, do not overlap) and simple baton hands; the dial itself is most unusual, in that it was originally black but now is turning a dark shade of purple

The case is in 95% condition, whilst the dial and movement are 95+%.

Length 37.5mm; lug to lug 42mm; height 13mm; It takes a 18mm strap and the original signed Zenith Gay Freres ‘Ladder’ bracelet is still fitted

£4,500.00 (approx. $6,250.00 US)