Products – James Dowling http://www.ukwatches.com Vintage Watches From James Dowling Mon, 15 Oct 2018 09:48:42 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.8 040 WWII German Army Issue Record DH wristwatch http://www.ukwatches.com/product/040-wwii-german-army-issue-record-dh-wristwatch/ Mon, 15 Oct 2018 09:48:41 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=982 During the Second World War, the UK purchased around 200,000 WWW watches for the Army, these are the so called ‘Dirty Dozen’ made by such famed Swiss makers as JLC, IWC, Omega & Longines; they were also ordered from such minor players as Cyma and Buren, in a desperate attempt to make up the numbers. And this watch comes from another of those minor players, Record who made around 25,000 watches for the army. But this isn’t one of them, although it uses the same movement. This one was made for the German army (Dienstuhr Heer), which explains the DH markings on the case back. Although the Germans ordered many more watches than the British, it seems that fewer of them have survived and of those that have, seem to have suffered rather more abuse than the WWWs have experienced

The movement is Record’s classic 30mm cal 022K, with 15 jewels and is unnumbered, unlike the British watches it has Incabloc shock protection on the balance.

The case is numbered 436875 with the letters D & H bookending the number, the case back is also stamped with the word ‘Stahlboden’, meaning steel back; but as far as I can tell the entire case is stainless steel. The inside case back is completely blank. Like the British WWW watches, it also has fixed strap bars.

The original matt black dial has full Arabic numerals with luminous paint on all of them, although much of the luminous paint has now discoloured to black and it also has polished steel luminous pencil hands with needle tips. It has a small subsidiary seconds dial with a polished steel seconds hand. The dial is signed “Record Watch Co” in gilt print under the 12 and immediately below is the word “Genf” (German for Geneva).

The case is 90% and the movement and dial are both 90+%.

The watch measures 34mm Diam, 41mm lug to lug and is 11mm high; it takes an 18mm strap and a new NATO strap is fitted to the watch.

£1,750.00 (approx.$995.00 US)

]]>
031 Oversized 1970 Royce Professional Marine Dive Watch http://www.ukwatches.com/product/031-oversized-1970-royce-professional-marine-dive-watch/ Sun, 14 Oct 2018 18:46:35 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=981 This 1970 Royce Professional Marine is probably the largest non Panerai watch in I have ever owned. Royce was a sister brand to Eska (the phonetic pronunciation of the owner’s initials), the brand was mostly sold in France and followed the strange French dive watch tradition of mounting the winding crown at 12, so that it was much less likely to be knocked and damaged whilst in use.

The dial is amazing, matt black with huge tritium plots, a date window at 3 surrounded by a white pained box; outside the dial and above it is a wide orange ring with the minute and seconds track interrupted only by the numbers 15/30/45/0. The hour hand looks like a Rolex Mercedes hand at first glance, but in fact lacks the three arms in the large luminous dot; the pencil minute hand is also heavily luminised and even the seconds hand has a large luminous rectangle near the tip. The luminous itself is  a strange green colour which might lead you to think that it is restored, however this colour was common on professional dive watches of the 1970s, look at the Breitling Super Ocean from the same period and also other Royce Marines, all have these huge green luminous plots.

The case is genuinely bizarre, it is principally matt chrome over brass with a stainless steel screw back; the ratcheted bezel is unidirectional, meaning this was one of the first dive watches to feature this safety feature. The curved hooded lugs are hinged where they join the case, which means that the watch fits a smaller wrist quite comfortably, despite its size. The top lug is cut out to allow access to the winding crown.

It is powered by the ubiquitous AS 2063, with 25 jewels, Incabloc shock protection and is unsigned.

The case is 90%, the dial and hands are 95% whilst the movement is 90%.

It measures 46mm in diameter and 63mm lug to flexible lug. On a brand new Tropic strap.

 

£1,750.00 (approx. $2,350.00 US)

]]>
003 1969 Rolex 5513 Maxi Dial Mk II Submariner with box & papers http://www.ukwatches.com/product/003-1969-rolex-5513-maxi-dial-mk-ii-submariner-with-box-papers/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 17:38:26 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=979 Rolex Submariner; reference 5513, bears the case number 62515XX dating from 1979, although the Bucherer, Lucerne papers aren’t dated until February 1981. It’s one of the most pristine ones that I have ever seen

The 5513 were the first to introduce the ‘Crown guards’ or ‘shoulders’ and became the archetype for all diver’s watches. What makes this one particularly desirable is that it has the matt dial, the original heavy domed crystal and the hack seconds facility. This watch case is still as new with the lug edge polished bevels still perfect.

This is a penultimate model with the heavy case, rounded crown shoulders and the matt dial with the printing in white and the indices have discoloured to an even beige/cream tone. What is nice is that it has the rare & desirable ‘Maxi’ dial; this is the second version where the word ‘Submariner’ is above the depth reading. The dial is, of course, marked 660 ft = 200m and has the italic ft/m markings and the much sought after ‘open’ 6s.

The watch was originally sold outside North America as can be seen by the movement which is the hack seconds 25 jewel cal 1520 rather than the 17 jewel version sold in North America. The movement has Kif flector shock protection.

The 5513 has suddenly become desirable, as it is obviously a Rolex but now, after 20 years of sapphire glass models, has a “vintage” look whilst still being an everyday useable watch. Note the appearance of the 5513 on the wrists of models in all the high end advertisements and in their mail order catalogues.

The case & bezel are both 95% and the movement and dial are both 95+%.

The watch measures 40mm Diam, 48mm lug to lug and is 14mm high; it takes a 20mm strap and the correct heavy fliplock oyster bracelet is fitted to the watch.

£17,500.00 (approx. $23,500.00 US)

]]>
021 WWII German Army Issue Record Watch http://www.ukwatches.com/product/039-wwii-german-army-issue-record-watch/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 16:57:29 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=971 During the Second World War, the UK purchased around 200,000 WWW watches for the Army, these are the so called ‘Dirty Dozen’ made by such famed Swiss makers as JLC, IWC, Omega & Longines; they were also ordered from such minor players as Cyma and Buren, in a desperate attempt to make up the numbers. And this watch comes from another of those minor players, Record who made around 25,000 watches for the British army. But this isn’t one of them, although it uses the same movement. This one was made for the German army (Dienstuhr Heer), which explains the DH markings on the case back. Although the Germans ordered many more watches than the British, it seems that fewer of them have survived and those that have seem to have suffered rather more abuse than the WWWs have experienced

The movement is Record’s classic 30mm cal 022K, with 15 jewels and is unnumbered, but unlike the British watches it has Incabloc shock protection on the balance.

The case is numbered 436875 with the letters D & H bookending the number, the screwed case back is also stamped with the word ‘Stahlboden’, meaning steel back; but as far as I can tell the entire case is stainless steel. The inside case back is completely blank.

The original matt black dial has full Arabic numerals with luminous paint on all of them, although much of the luminous paint has now discoloured to black and the steel pencil hands with needle tips also have luminous infill. It has a small subsidiary seconds dial with a polished steel seconds hand. The dial is signed “Record Watch Co” in gilt print under the 12 and immediately below is the word “Genf” (German for Geneva).

The case is 90% and the movement and dial are both 90+%.

The watch measures 34mm Diam, 41mm lug to lug and is 11mm high; it takes an 18mm strap and a new NATO strap is fitted to the watch.

£750.00 (approx.$995.00 US)

]]>
038 1962 Zodiac Sea Wolf, Vietnam era http://www.ukwatches.com/product/038-1962-zodiac-sea-wolf-vietnam-era/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 16:50:20 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=970 The Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the more popular watches with servicemen during the Vietnam war. Originally launched in 1953, the Datographic version of the watch was launched in 1962; smaller and slimmer than other contemporary dive watches, it nevertheless claimed a 200 meter depth rating similar to the 5512 Submariner, despite the fact that the Zodiac had a snap back, not a screwed one.

The dial is high gloss black with large luminous triangles at the quarter hour marks with the Arabic hour numbers below the luminous, there is a date window at 3 surrounded by a silvered metal frame. There are applied hour baton indices, each with a stripe of luminous in their centre and an outer silver print minute track. The centre off the dial is very busy, with a Zodiac ‘sniperscope’ logo under the 12 and the brand name just underneath and beneath that the model name. Just above the 6 is the word ‘Automatic’ and at the very bottom of the dial is ‘Swiss T 25MC’. The triangular hands have large tritium inserts held in place by a ‘backbone’ running down the centre of each hand.

The case is of unusual construction, in that it has a snap back, which is very rare in a 200m rated dive watch but which certainly contributes to the slimness of the piece. The bidirectional ratcheted bezel is also unusual in that the Bakelite insert is a very light blue colour, with a large tritium triangle at 60, minute markers between it and 15 and just the single number 30 at the very bottom of the bezel insert. The actual bezel is of a similar material to contemporary Rolex ones, a rhodium finish over a brass metal, and like most Rolex ones, the rhodium has disappeared leaving a brassy appearance.

The movement is the Zodiac signed 722-916, based on a A. Schild manual movement with the addition of an automatic winding module, it beats at the unusual rate of 21,600 and has 17 jewels and is unadjusted. It has Incabloc shock protection and is stamped with the import code KXF near the balance, which was the US import code for Zenith.

The case is 90%, whilst the movement & dial are both 95%.

Diameter 35.5mm; Lug-to-Lug 42.7mm; Height 10.6mm. It takes a 17mm strap and a NATO strap is fitted.

£1,100.00 (approx. $1,450.00)

 

]]>
001 Jaeger LeCoultre Memovox Polaris II http://www.ukwatches.com/product/001-jaeger-lecoultre-memovox-polaris-ii/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 16:36:33 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=969 The JLC Polaris II is actually more rare than the Mk I Polaris, and unlike its predecessor came in a choice of colour ways. The US got a fetching shade of turquoise blue for the dial and bezel, whilst the rest of the world got the more restrained choices of burgundy or grey. The US versions were signed ‘HPG’ on the alarm disc (standing for ‘High Precision Guaranteed), whilst the rest of the world got ‘GT” (standing for Grand Taille, meaning ‘BigCase’ but also referencing Gran Turismo cars). It was quite obviously a 1970s watch, being made between 1970 and 72, both the colours and the shape could have come from no other era, although for its time, it was quite a massive watch, the lugless case measures 43.5mm long.

The dial is split into 3 parts, an outer white minute/seconds track which sits above the actual grey dial, which has large tritium batons for each of the hours, apart from the 12 which has double tritium markers. There is a gold central alarm dial which bears the word ‘Memovox’ and the alarm pointer is formed from the stylised letters GT.

The Oval case is sandblasted over the surface, including the case back, the two winding & setting crowns are both original and signed with the double J logo; the ratcheted bezel rotates in both directions and is fitted with a clear Bakelite insert in grey with a white triangle at 12 full white Arabic numerals for the 10 second intervals and individual dashes for all the remaining minutes. The scalloped case back is unique in my experience and MAY be something to do with reinforcing the sound of the alarm.

It uses the Cal 916, which incorporated several new features for JLC, it beat at 28,800 making it the highest frequency Jaeger movement and the rotor wound the watch in both directions. The only downside of the movement is that it has just 17 jewels, enabling it to be imported into the US without the additional tariffs on higher jewelled watches. 17 jewel watches were taxed at a flat rate of $1.25, anything over than 17 jewels had to pay $3.00 PLUS 3% of the value. It wasn’t the additional $1.75, it was the 3% tax which made all the difference. Enough of a difference that many Swiss firms, including Omega and Rolex made ‘US only’ versions of their movements with only 17 jewels, when the rest of the world had movements with 25 jewels or more. It also meant that many firms started to design movements with only 17 jewels, even if they were high quality & the Cal. 916 is one of these.

Dial is 95%, case is also 95% whilst the movement is 95+%.
Width 44mm; Lug to Lug 49.6mm; Height 15.8mm., it takes a 19mm strap and a matching grey Perlon one is fitted.

£6,000.00 (approx. $8,000.00)

]]>
011 1917 Sterling Silver Zenith ‘Land & Water’ Trench Watch http://www.ukwatches.com/product/011-unusual-oversized-royce-professional-marine/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 16:17:00 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=967 One of the more interesting watches to be introduced during the First World War, the Zenith Land and Water can claim to be one of the very first wristwatches designed to solve the problems of moisture and dust entering the case.

It uses a remarkable case construction where the case and back are one bowl shaped unit and the movement and dial sit inside this under a screwed bezel and glass. This model was exclusive to the firm’s main UK retailer, Birch & Gaydon and advertised as being especially designed for naval & military officers (which explains the Land & Water name). In fact Zenith’s name appears nowhere on the exterior of the watch, either on the dial or case. Only the retailer’s name & full address appear, as well as the model name above the seconds dial.

The dial is black enamel free of any visible cracks or chips, with very large white Arabic numbers which originally would have had radium paint upon them, this has been removed, although all three of the hands still have their radium inserts present. There is a small sunken seconds dial at the 6 position and the seconds hand, most unusually also has a radium insert.

The case is Swiss made, sterling silver and bears the Glasgow import marks for 1917. It has Zenith’s silver sponsor’s mark of ‘ZWC’ in a triangular cartouche near the winding stem and the case number 3049705 on the other side of the case interior.

The movement is gilt finished, jewelled to all the pivots, although in those days it wasn’t necessary to state the number of jewels or adjustments, it is obviously a very high quality movement with Zenith’s patented ‘snail shell’ micrometer regulator and highly polished steel winding wheels. It is numbered 2314493, stamped ‘Swiss Made’ and (like all watches of this period) does not have any form of shock protection for the balance.

The movement is 90+%, whilst the case & dial are also both 90%.

Width 35mm; Lug-to-Lug 38.8; Height 11mm. It takes a 12.5mm strap and an excellent brown leather replica of the original one is fitted.

£2,500.00 (approx. $3,300.00 US)

]]>
009 1942 Stainless Steel Rolex Oyster Athlete http://www.ukwatches.com/product/009-1942-stainless-steel-rolex-oyster-athlete/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 16:10:59 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=966 Probably the nicest “mid size” Rolex I have ever seen, this steel Oyster Athlete is model number 4127 and has case number 215285, which dates it to 1942/1943

These Oyster Athletes have a completely different case style to the more common “Boy’s Size” and are obviously influenced by the pre war German Bauhaus design movement which emphasised simplicity. The case is a perfect circle and the lugs are parallel, it is as if someone had asked a child to draw a watch. But this simplicity is what makes it so pure and classic.

The watch has a slightly patinated, silvered dial with large luminous Arabic numbers, it was one of the first watches to feature the new “mercedes’ style luminous blued steel hour hand with a blued steel ‘sword’ shaped minute hand. There is an outer seconds track. The sweep seconds hand is blued steel with a small arrow shaped counterweight.

It uses the 17 jewel 10.5-ligne “hunter” movement with the heavy gold superbalance and is adjusted to two positions; the movement bears the import stamp ‘ROW’ on the balance cock, standing for Rolex, meaning that this watch was imported to the US, making it one of the very first.

The case is absolutely stunning with a polished finish on the side of the lugs and a brushed matt finish on the side of the case. The slim bezel sloped downwards towards the glass, giving an impression of depth between the bezel and the dial. These have always been two-piece cases with a flat screwed back. As the case is all original, I have chosen not to have it polished, so there are some light scratches visible, but it is worth remembering that this watch is well over 70 years old. It still has the original domed Oyster patent crown.

The case is a solid 95%, the dial and hands are 90+% whilst the movement is 90%.

The watch measures 31.8mm Diam, 40mm lug to lug, it is 12.5mm high and takes a 17mm band and a new brown leather band has been fitted.

£3,000.00 (approx $4,000.00 US)

]]>
010 Jaeger Le Coultre Sweep Seconds ‘Calatrava’ http://www.ukwatches.com/product/010-jaeger-le-coultre-sweep-seconds-calatrava/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 15:57:03 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=964 Dating from the late 1950s or the early 1960s, this simple snap back dress watch does a great job of hiding the treasure within; the amazing Jaeger leCoultre K478C; this is a classic Jaeger design with their usual 1930s two plate design with exposed flat click spring. It features an oversized balance wheel beating at a leisurely 18,000 bph, a Breguet hairspring and shock protection on the balance. This is recognisable as a later version of the movement as it has a rhodium finish, earlier versions were gilt plated, the movement is undecorated with Geneva stripes or Perlage,  but the brushed finish on the plates is exquisite and the anglage and countersinking are both perfect.

The case is as austere as the movement finish, a slim slightly sloped bezel, downturned lugs and a saucer shaped snap back, all of the original edges are present and perfect. The outer case back bears the case number 803125, whilst the inside is stamped ‘Acier Inoxydable’ and below that ‘LeCoultre Co’ and ‘Swiss’.

The dial is simple silvered with applied polished steel batons for the hour indices, whilst there are double batons at each of the quarters, the brand name is printed just below the 12 and ‘Swiss Made’ is printed in microscopic type at the very edge of the dial. There is an outer minute/seconds track and the hands are both polished steel baton style with pencil tips, whilst the seconds hand is a very slim, almost needle like polished steel one.

The movement is 95+%, whilst the case & dial are both 95%.

Diameter 33.5mm; Lug-to-Lug 40.5mm; Height 10.mm. It takes a 16mm strap and a brand new pigskin one is fitted.

 

£1,250.00 (approx. $1,700.00)

]]>
006 Zenith Defy 28,800Turquoise Dial http://www.ukwatches.com/product/006-zenith-defy-28800turquoise-dial/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 15:49:16 +0000 http://www.ukwatches.com/?post_type=product&p=963 Dating from the very end of the 1960s the Zenith Defy 28,800 is the very definition of “massive”; hewn from a solid block of stainless steel it was sold as “The Safe of Time” in the Italian market. Whilst it doesn’t have a revolving bezel it is as waterproof as any dive watch of the era, being safe down to 300m; 50% deeper than the Rolex Submariner 1680.

The case is a simple tonneau shape with a most unusual 14 sided screwed bezel; it’s not the shape of the case which makes it stand out, rather it’s the sheer heft of the piece and the feeling of solidity about it which make such an impression. Case number 288 E 845, model number A 7682.

The Defy was launched at the same time as the El Primero and has always been overshadowed by its sibling, although a few El Primero movements were fitted to Defy cases; the El Primero was distinguished by its high beat (36,000 bph) automatic movement, which also overshadowed the Defy’s new slightly lower beat (28,800 bph) 2563 PC movement. But the movement in the defy had one ‘trick’ up its sleeve which was unique; the movement was suspended in a synthetic rubber ring which isolated it from shocks applied to the case.

The dial is amazing, there were three colours available; burgundy, tobacco brown and this one, turquoise. But it isn’t just the colour, it is also the way it is applied, in a vignette style, where it gets darker the closer it gets to the edges of the dial. The huge square three-dimensional hour markers are also unique to the Defy, being fluted on their top surface. The hands are also oversized with heavy luminous inserts, even in the seconds hand, although there is no luminous on the dial. There is a date window at 4:30, but please note that the date is not quickset.

The case is 85%, whilst the movement & dial are both 90%.

Diameter 37.5mm; Lug-to-Lug 45.3mm; Height 13.6mm. It takes a 22mm strap and an aftermarket Oyster style bracelet is fitted.

£950.00 ($approx. $1,300.00 US)

]]>