18k Yellow Gold Patek Philippe Reference 425, case number 639607, movement number 838012, dating from the mid 1930s
It is a sign of how much of a watchnut you are when you openly declare that you have favourite movements; and for me Patek’s 9-90 movement is one of mine. Produced from 1934 to the 1950s, this is one of the first series, and as such has 18 jewels, flat hairspring, micrometer regulator, Geneva stripes, but no Geneva Seal. The movement is also stamped with the letters PXP on the balance cock, showing that it was destined for the US, but from the period before Henri Stern became the agents in 1937, after which US bound Pateks bore the code HOX.
The extended rectangular case is known as the ‘Tegolino’ by Italian collectors (named after a rectangular cake, made by Barilla, in Italy) and is deceptively simple at first sight but is actually a very complex design. It has matt brushed straight case sides, a curved back, brushed ‘hoods’ above & below the dial and brightly polished faceted side surfaces, forming the bezel which then lead into the downturned lugs. The condition of the case is excellent, considering its age, as both the Swiss gold hallmarks, on the side of the case & on one lug are both still visible. The original specification faceted glass is still fitted, adding another geometric element to an already complex case.
The dial is silvered with applied diamond cut batons, whilst the outer ‘railway track’ minute track, the sunken subsidiary dial and the maker’s name are all in black enamel. The dial is in amazing condition, because of the way the enamel detailing is applied; firstly the dial is engraved with the required text and markers, then this engraving is filled with enamel & then fired in an oven. This results in the print being actually part of the dial, rather than just sitting on top of it. It is much more labour intensive & expensive than conventional printing but means that the dial remains pristine as long as the clear lacquer on top of the dial remains in one piece; as this one does.
The case is 95%, the dial is 95+% and the movement is in 95% condition.
It measures 34.5mm long, 42mm lug to lug, 20mm wide and 8.5mm high it takes a 17 mm strap and is on black crocodile effect strap.
£5,500.00 (approx $8,400.00 US)