Sold – James Dowling Vintage Watches From James Dowling Mon, 15 Oct 2018 09:48:42 +0000 en-US hourly 1 SOLD Breitling Chronomatic, model number 2111 dating from the mid 1970s. Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:27:58 +0000 Breitling Chronomatic, model 2111, case number 1329029

The dial is high gloss dark grey with applied faceted steel hour batons for the indices, which have tritium blocks at their periphery. Like all cal 12 versions it has a date window at the 6 position and does not have a continuous seconds hand. It has a 12 hour counter at the 9 position and a 30 minute counter at the 3 position. Both the sweep seconds hand and the 30 min counter hand are bright orange for immediate visibility, whilst the hour & minute hands are also large emergency orange batons with luminous inserts. The dial is most unusual in that it has both tachymeter and pulsations marks on the outer track.

The movement is the famed Breitling/Heuer-Leonidas/Hamilton-Buren calibre 12, the world’s first automatic chronograph. The movement has 17 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, and a fine regulation for the regulator. It is powered by a micro-rotor and was the first modular chronograph movement, where the chronograph mechanism was on a separate plate to the time module, which simplified servicing greatly. Like all calibre 12 powered watches this one has the winding crown at the 9 position.

About ten years after Breitling went bankrupt in the mid 1970s a large number of New Old Stock Breitlings appeared on the secondary market, my gut feeling is that this was one of them. The condition of the case, dial & movement is phenomenal for a 40 year old watch.

The dial is 95%+, whilst the case & movement are also both 95%+.
It measures 38mm diam, 41mm lug to lug and 14mm high it takes a 20 mm strap and a new black leather one with original Breitling steel buckle is fitted.


SOLD Lemania military pilot’s chronograph Thu, 26 Oct 2017 20:10:43 +0000 In the mid 1970s, Lemania produced this watch for Flygvapnet (the  Swedish Air Force) and also the the South African Air Force, it has always been assumed that they did not make any for the civilian market, however this watch suggests that a few were produced. It differs from the military version in not having either fixed strap bars or any issue markings.

The watch uses the Lemania manual movement cal.1872, which to the best of my knowledge was used in no other watch. It has an Incabloc shock protection system and the movement is also marked with the Swiss Cross and LWC (for Lemania Watch Company) under the balance wheel. The movement is protected by an especially tight fitting cover which extends all the way around the sides of the movement, leading me to believe that it is highly anti-magnetic (although I have no proof of this).

The case is very heavy with straight faceted lugs and a screw back, the bezel rotates in both directions and has 60 minute graduations with Arabic numerals at the 15/30/45 points

The dial is a perfect matt black with perfect white printing and has white hands which stand out easily against the dial; which has full Arabic numbers in luminous tritium, which has faded to a creamy colour. The original hands have tritium inserts along almost all their length.

The case is 95%, the dial is also 95% and the movement is in 95+% condition.

It measures 42mm diam, 48mm lug to lug and 14mm high it takes a 20 mm strap and is on a new G10 (NATO) stap.

£2,500.00 (approx. $3,800.00 US)

SOLD Jaeger le Coultre Australian Issue WWW watch Thu, 26 Oct 2017 19:42:16 +0000 Without a doubt one of the rarest and most desirable of all the variety of watches supplied to the British & Commonwealth forces during WW II. The JLC calibre 479 WWW was supplied to soldiers in the Armies of the British Empire towards the end of WWII, it was NOT a pilot’s watch.

The nomenclature “WWW” stands for “Wrist Watch, Waterproof” and the Jaeger, like all the WWW watches (except the IWC) has a steel screw back

It uses the Jaeger cal 479 movement, which has 15 jewels (the majority of which are held in chatons), Geneva stripes, gilt finish and bears the number 322648, it has exposed winding wheels & click spring and no shock protection on the balance staff.

The heavy case has a slim bezel and a glass that screws in from the back to provide a dustproof seal. The caseback is numbered 294165 and like all the Australian issue WWW watches, does not have the WWW caseback markings.

The original dial is matt black with full Arabic numerals in white paint; there is an outer railway style minutes track, UK Govt. Arrowhead above the centre post and a huge subsidiary seconds dial at 6. The luminous dots have swollen and darkened due to the absorption of moisture from the atmosphere, as is normal for watches of this period. This is without a doubt the cleanest & nicest dial I have ever had on the dozen or more Jaeger WWW watches that I have owned over the years, as they have a tendency to lose their luminous dots over time.

The watch has just been cleaned, serviced & timed and is running perfectly.

The dial & movement are both 95+% and the case is 90%

The watch measures 35mm Diam, 45mm lug to lug, it is 10mm high and takes an 18mm strap and is on a period khaki coloured cloth strap.

£1,950.00 (approx $3,050.00 US)

SOLD Israeli issued, combat worn, Pointed Crown Guard Tudor Oyster-Prince, “Submariner”, 200m/660ft, Rotor Self-winding, Ref. 7928 Thu, 26 Oct 2017 19:38:44 +0000 Without a doubt, the rarest version of the Tudor Submariner, the Israeli issued S13 version with pointed crown guards and mixed gilt/silver dial print.
The perfect original dial is completely untouched, and the original gilt/silver print is unmarked and as it features both the curved “Self-Winding” text at the bottom of the dial and the early Tudor rose logo at the top, it is one of the most attractive dials ever seen on a Tudor Submariner.

The movement is the Tudor Cal. T 390, developed by Rolex around 1950 especially for the Tudor brand. It was a rugged and rather high automatic movement with a central rotor winding in both directions. Its components were markedly similar to those of the contemporary Rolex Caliber 1030, including the shape of the rotor, the Maltese spring to stop the rotor, and the sprung discs of the twin click. The movement has 17 jewels, flat Nivarox hairspring and Kif-Trior shock resistance.

The watch is in gorgeous original condition, with much of the original case beveling still present & the original bezel with the wide striations is still fitted..
The case is 95% whilst the movement is 95+% and the dial is also 95+%.

The watch measures 39.5mm diameter, 47.5mm lug to lug, 14 mm high and takes a 20mm strap and is fitted with a period correct folded oyster bracelet, which is loose & has one replaced link. This is NOT the original bracelet, as these were not worn on the wrist, but rather on dive boards, along with a compass & depth gauge.

Price on Application

SOLD COMEX Rare matt dial Submariner Thu, 26 Oct 2017 19:36:21 +0000 COMEX Rare matt dial Submariner 16800 with box & all papers

This is the rarest of all COMEX Submariners; the sapphire glass 16800 with the matt dial. Case number 72769XX, COMEX number 60XX, dating to 1982.

It is assumed that there were less than 25 of these made, the second batch was not made until 1987, by which time the gloss dial with white gold indices had arrived. Also many of the original batch of 25 will have had their dials replaced when they were serviced by Rolex; thereby making this 100% original example very rare & collectable. Adding to its collectability is the fact that this watch comes with both boxes & all the papers, even the original plastic document wallet, which has the sticker showing both the case & COMEX numbers.

The movement is the 26 jewel cal 3035, the first quick set date movement from Rolex.

The dial is gorgeous, unmarked and the luminous has faded to a perfect ivory colour.

The case is 90% and the dial and movement are both 95+%.

The watch measures 40mm Diam, 48mm lug to lug, it is 13mm high, it takes a 20mm band and the original heavy fliplock Oyster one, with 11 links is fitted.

Price on application

18k Yellow Gold Patek Philippe Reference 425 ‘Tegolino’ Thu, 26 Oct 2017 19:33:04 +0000 18k Yellow Gold Patek Philippe Reference 425, case number 639607, movement number 838012, dating from the mid 1930s

It is a sign of how much of a watchnut you are when you openly declare that you have favourite movements; and for me Patek’s 9-90 movement is one of mine. Produced from 1934 to the 1950s, this is one of the first series, and as such has 18 jewels, flat hairspring, micrometer regulator, Geneva stripes, but no Geneva Seal. The movement is also stamped with the letters PXP on the balance cock, showing that it was destined for the US, but from the period before Henri Stern became the agents in 1937, after which US bound Pateks bore the code HOX.

The extended rectangular case is known as the ‘Tegolino’ by Italian collectors (named after a rectangular cake, made by Barilla, in Italy) and is deceptively simple at first sight but is actually a very complex design. It has matt brushed straight case sides, a curved back, brushed ‘hoods’ above & below the dial and brightly polished faceted side surfaces, forming the bezel which then lead into the downturned lugs. The condition of the case is excellent, considering its age, as both the Swiss gold hallmarks, on the side of the case & on one lug are both still visible. The original specification faceted glass is still fitted, adding another geometric element to an already complex case.

The dial is silvered with applied diamond cut batons, whilst the outer ‘railway track’ minute track, the sunken subsidiary dial and the maker’s name are all in black enamel. The dial is in amazing condition, because of the way the enamel detailing is applied; firstly the dial is engraved with the required text and markers, then this engraving is filled with enamel & then fired in an oven. This results in the print being actually part of the dial, rather than just sitting on top of it. It is much more labour intensive & expensive than conventional printing but means that the dial remains pristine as long as the clear lacquer on top of the dial remains in one piece; as this one does.

The case is 95%, the dial is 95+% and the movement is in 95% condition.

It measures 34.5mm long, 42mm lug to lug, 20mm wide and 8.5mm high it takes a 17 mm strap and is on black crocodile effect strap.

£5,500.00 (approx $8,400.00 US)

SOLD Zenith Special original Pilot’s watch from the 1930s Thu, 26 Oct 2017 19:17:54 +0000 This watch is one of a number made in the decade prior to WWII, which are collectively known as “aviator’s watches”, but more correctly as Pilot’s or Navigator’s Watches. The IWC Mk IX is probably the best known of the bunch but Zenith, Movado, Omega, Helvetia & Avia and many others also made similar watches.

Large size cases, black dials with radium numerals & hands and a rotating bezel with a movable pointer below the glass are the distinguishing features. Most of them seem to have been designed for and used by the nascent German Luftwaffe pilots although they were never really issued; however the overall design lived on in the Hanhardt chronographs used by the Luftwaffe during WWII.

An identical watch is shown in K. Knirim’s “Military Timepieces” on page 373 and what is most interesting is that this watch also has the very large winding tube protruding from the case side to enable winding while wearing flying gloves in the unheated cockpits of those early days.

The watch uses the brushed gilt finish in house manufacture Zenith Cal. 13-2-1, numbered 3059418, it has Manual Winding, and ‘snail shell’ micrometer adjustment of the regulator. Like all watches from this era, it has no shock absorption for the balance staff. The movement is protected by a dust cover; which, unusually, is made from mineral glass, allowing the movement to be seen in all its glory.

The alloy case is in not so good condition, the rotating bezel moves freely, but the screwed back has experienced some corrosion over time.

The Original Black enamel Dial has a sunken subsidiary seconds dial at the six position the indices are luminous bars, with double bars at the 12 position. The ‘pencil’ hands are luminous, but as can be expected with an 80 year old watch, none of the luminous still functions.

The dial is 90%, whilst the movement is 95% and the case is 80%.

The watch measures 35.2mm Diam, 39.5mm lug to lug, it is 12mm high and takes a 20 mm strap and a black leather strap is fitted.


SOLD 18k 1930s Cartier Double Calendar watch with EWC movement. Thu, 26 Oct 2017 19:00:33 +0000 European Watch & Clock Co, was the partnership between Cartier & Le Coultre who built watches & clocks exclusively for Cartier; the cases were made by Cartier & the movements & dials by JLC.

Two piece case with integral bezel, snap back, downturned lugs and domed bezel; the inner caseback bears the manufacturer’s name and the hand stamped case number 36231. The date can be adjusted via a pusher at the 8 position. The case itself was made in Paris by Cartier and bears French 18k hallmarks both on the case body and back. Like all Cartier watches of the period, it does not use springbars, rather the solid gold bars are screwed in, as with modern Cartier and Panerai watches.

The movement is not numbered and is gilt finished, with “cotes de Geneve” decoration. 15 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance with adjusting screws & self compensating Breguet balance spring, ‘stick’ regulation, adjusted to 3 positions. The movement is essentially a JLC calibre 410 with the addition of the two calendar complications.

The gloss black dial has the date printed in red on its extreme periphery, just outside the ‘railway track’ minute track, the hour indices are bright white printed Arabics, the aperture for the day of the week is just below the 12, there is a sunken subsidiary seconds dial at 6 and the dial is signed Cartier just below the 12 and ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom.

The case is in 85% condition and the dial is 90%, whilst the movement is 95+%.

The watch measures 29.5mm diameter, 36.5mm lug to lug and 9.5mm high, it takes a 17mm strap and a black crocodile strap is fitted with an 18k deployant buckle.


SOLD Tudor ‘Home Plate’ Oysterdate Chronograph Thu, 26 Oct 2017 16:24:25 +0000 Model 7032/0, case number 7593XX, made in the first quarter of 1971, the Tudor Oysterdate was the first of the exotic dialled watches from the little brother of Rolex, and soon became known as the ‘Home plate’ after the design of the hour indices. Made for only two years, between 1970 and 1972, the Home Plate is the most exotically dialled Tudor ever made and, by far, the most desirable. Known as the ‘Paul Newman’ of Tudors, it is, by far, a much more rare watch which has appreciated more than any other Tudor model in the past few years.

The watch uses a much more robust case than the contemporary Valjoux powered Daytonas, which seem almost dainty in comparison to the Tudor. The bezel is in gorgeous condition, with few of the edge dings which they are so prone to collecting.

The perfect original dial is excellent, and exhibits only a little of the spotting or fading for which this model is so well known. The original twin faceted white gold hands are in excellent condition with just a little corrosion visible under a loupe, near the centre post. All of the luminous is intact, has faded to a wonderful creamy pink colour; but, understandably, given the forty years of use it has had, no longer glows.

The movement is the classic Valjoux manual wind 7734, with 17 jewels, 36 hour power reserve and date function at 6. The 7734 was introduced in 1969 and the Tudor 7032 the following year, so this watch was one of the first to use this new movement, which had almost as short a life as the 7032, being discontinued after nine years and the production line sold to the Russian ‘Poljot’ factory, where it continues as the Poljot 3133.

The case is 95% whilst the movement is also 95% and the dial is 90+%.

The watch measures 39.5mm diameter, 47.5mm lug to lug, 13mm high and takes a 20 mm strap and the original Rolex signed folded 7836 bracelet with all 13 links is still fitted.


SOLD Early rolex 16800 ‘transitional’ matt dial Submariner Wed, 13 Sep 2017 10:07:05 +0000 Rare early matt dial version, serial number 7,248,XXX dating from 1981, with service documentation from Rolex UK.

The 16800 was a breakthrough watch for Rolex, as well as being their first diver’s watch with a sapphire crystal, it also introduced a new movement, the 3035, a quick set date, fast beat (28,000bph) 27 jewel calibre, a rotating bezel which only turned anti clockwise as a safety feature for divers and a sturdier case which was now capable of handling depths of up to 1,000 feet (300m) rather than the 660ft (200m) of the previous model.

The model was in production for less than a decade, from 1979 until 1988, but only for the first couple of years was the watch produced with the matt dial, which has always been the most desirable, as it is the best of both worlds; the vintage look of the matt dial, devoid of white gold frames around the luminous coupled with the scratchproof sapphire crystal.

The only problem is that as these watches approach their 40th birthday, most of the original matt dials have been swapped during Rolex services for gloss tritium or (even worse) Luminova dials, so finding a watch with the original dial, and Rolex service paperwork is a major accomplishment.

The movement is the newly introduced 3035, a 27 jewel, 5 adjustment calibre with Kif Flector shock protection & free sprung Micro Stella adjustment of the balance wheel.

Dial is 95%, case is 95% whilst the movement is 95+%.
Diameter 40mm; Lug to Lug 47mm; Height 12.5mm., it takes a 20mm bracelet and a heavy 93150 ‘Fliplock’ one is fitted.